NV Charles Dufour 'Vin de Comptoir L.22' Coteaux Champenois Blanc, Champagne, France

Charles Dufour has been something of a breakout success in the world of natural wine. He represents a new generation of small vignerons. On top of his own vineyards, which are bottled under the Bulles de Comptoir label, since 2010 he has been making wines from some of his family's vineyards situated in Celles-sur-Ource under his mother's name, Françoise Martinot.

Charles employs a biodynamic approach, quite the challenge in this region's marginal and unpredictable climate. In the cellar produces his vin clair using native yeasts, raising the wine in barrels and avoiding the use of sulfites altogether. He opts for extensive aging on the lees to yield complex, engaging champagnes with a beautiful vinous character.