2023 Brand Brothers 'Wilder Satz Pur' White Blend, Pfalz, Germany

Brothers Daniel and Jonas Brand farm organically in the northern Pfalz and have become stars of Germany’s natural wine scene. Wilder Satz (“wild blend”) is a field blend of eight grapes. The tank is fermented with Riesling dropped in “tea bags” of skins, while the other grapes get a short maceration, and it’s bottled unfined and unfiltered. It’s light, zippy and a little fizzy, with lemon zest, chalky, salty freshness and an elderflower-lemonade energy. It’s a perfect porch-pounder.