2018 Wasenhaus 'Möhlin' Spätburgunder, Baden, Germany

The Möhlin comes from the barest, stoniest limestone parcel of the estate, a side valley with a southeast exposure on old vines once worked by Henrik Möbitz. In 2018 it was fermented with 80% whole clusters, with a short carbonic maceration first, then aged 18 months in entirely used barriques. The nose is cool and tight, with a hint of open fruit and sweetness from the carbonic maceration, then reduction, smokiness, a fine wildness, a touch of toast, plum, a note of blood and spare saltiness. The palate is firm and gripping, with sharp acidity and tight tannin, and the limestone digs in and lingers. Community notes add red and blue fruit and forest floor, Burgundian in style but its own thing.