2024 Wasenhaus 'Filzen' Chardonnay, Baden, Germany

A Chardonnay from a steep, barren single site on limestone and loess in Baden, so difficult that it is worked entirely by hand. The tiny grapes are whole-cluster pressed and fermented spontaneously in small used barrels, then aged a year on the full lees in wood and another six months on fine lees in stainless steel, with no filtration and minimal sulfur. The 2024 is cool and reserved, with salinity, chalk dust and oyster shell over fresh ripe lemon, a touch of yellow apple, hay and meadow herbs. The palate is straight and taut with lively acidity and a firm, tight-knit texture. At 12%, it suits roast poultry with mushrooms or fish.