Charles Dufour Champagne 'Bulles de Comptoir' N.11

Born and raised in Champagne, Charles Dufour converted his 6ha farm to organic practices in 2013. To limit the use of harmful chemicals like copper, he has adopted biodynamic preparations like herbal teas to limit vineyard disease. With illustrious neighbors like Cédric Bouchard, this little corner of the Côte des Bar proves they can compete with the region’s more famous sub-appellations.

In fact, Charles’ Bulles de Comptoir cuvée was the house Champagne at Noma. The media often calls him ‘the Selosse of the Aube’, a worthy title for a boundary-pushing vigneron. Each vintage features a different illustration adding to its charm and anti-establishment aesthetic.

This wine comes from Charles Dufour’s organic vineyard in Landreville, a village in Champagne’s southern Côte des Bar. Classic kimmeridgian chalk soils mingle with heavier clay marls leading to an intermingling of poise and power.

region: Champagne France

varietal: Pinot Noir (60%), Chardonnay (30%), and Pinot Blanc (10%)

style: sparkling (Champagne method)

80% of the wine comes from the 2019 vintage, 20% comes from vintages as far back as the 1980s now that Charles has disgorged his father’s cellar into his reserve perpetuelle – an ode to the past.

cellar: ferments three quarters of his wines in barrel while the remainder ferments in stainless steel. Both primary fermentation and malolactic conversion are done with indigenous microorganisms. After bottling, the wine spends 15 months on lees during secondary fermentation